To catch up after two extra days in Prince George (motor
home is now in tip top working order!), we traveled three days in a row, about
6 hours a day, staying one night each in Smithers, Stewart, and Dease Lake, BC
and finally, a two night stop in Teslin, Yukon Territory. We’re still in BC,
but we had lunch in ALASKA, crossing the border into Hyder. If you have not looked at a map yet, note
that there is only one road into Hyder – and no road out, so we had to return
to BC to continue our drive. (note: Lack of cell or internet service in these remote areas means that writing and posting of this blog are not always synchronous. Bear with me!)
When I left Chicago, I worried that I would miss my beloved
spring and summer flower garden, but as the unbelievably huge and prolific
lilac bushes of British Columbia gave way to flowering raspberries, fairly
slippers, and endless lupine along the road, I realize that our tour of western
Canada and Alaska will provide me with an every-changing garden of sensational
sights.
Fairy Slipper |
In fact, we’re running low on adjectives for “awesome” as every day has
been a blink-and-you-might-miss-it journey.
David’s mastery of big rig driving is as inspiring as the scenery. We’ve seen eight black bears, one brown bear,
one bald eagle, two loons, one coyote, five deer, two foxes, two caribou, three
otters, a buzzard, and one man and a bike (with dog). While we admired the
otters and the buzzard on various morning walks, the other wildlife sightings
required David to slow down, speed up, and point dramatically while negotiating
this 42 foot behemoth (plus car in tow) that we call home on mountainous and
winding mountain two lane highways. The
man-bike-dog also required David to control said behemoth while we all burst
into uproarious laughter as we realized that the moose-bear-caribou (!!!) we
were sighting was a much more mundane, but still impressive man riding his bike
up a mountain pass while his dog trotted alongside. Around every hair pin turn, at the crest of
every impossibly steep ascent, and on the thank-goodness-we-made it flat at the
end of each 8% grade, a glorious new vista awaits.
The drive from Prince George to Smithers provided
magnificent views of the Omineca Mountains, the Lake Country, and the
rollicking Fraser River. Our camp ground
in Smithers, aptly named “Glacier View” faced the imposing sight of Evelyn
Glacier, and our afternoon walk to Twin Falls revealed Kathlyn Glacier from
which the icy grey-green falls cascaded dramatically. I wanted to dip my toes in the water, but a
handful of the stuff left with me with toes that shriveled into my Birkenstocks
and refused to let go.
Fraser River |
The next morning
brought us crisp blue skies for a quick stop at K’san Haida village, where we
walked around the captivating longhouses and totem poles in mystical silence
before the visitor’s center had even opened.
But the most jaw-dropping sites were yet to come. Bear Creek Canyon, complete with grandiose
views of snow-capped peaks and waterfalls shooting from rocky roadside cliffs
culminated with the icy blue face of majestic Bear Glacier – out of this world!
Totems and Long Houses at K'san |
A rainy day drive into Stewart BC/Hyder AK
gave us ghostly views of mountain peaks with clouds drifting across their
faces. Southeast Alaska’s annual 92
inches of rain create an unbelievably lush atmosphere – moisture we greatly
missed as we drove on to the Yukon down a dusty gravel highway that has coated
our cars and RVs in uniforms of sandy grey.
A million years ago – okay, maybe 20 – I came to the inside
passage of Alaska on a cruise ship. The
cruise was lovely, and the views of the ocean, whales, dolphins, and all were
great. And, I didn’t get to SEE the
country the way we are seeing it now.
This is stupendous!
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